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Washoku (Traditional Dietary Cultures of the Japanese) and Kyoryori (Kyoto Cuisine) Edition

Washoku (Traditional Dietary Cultures of the Japanese) and Kyoryori (Kyoto Cuisine) Edition

The intangible WAZA held by chefs and other culinary professionals who sustain Japan’s food culture has been refined and passed down through the country’s history to create the moving culinary experiences (“deliciousness”) we enjoy. On November 24, a special lecture by WAZA inheritors, called “Learning Traditional Cuisine from Kyoto’s Master Artisans: Saba-no-Sugata-Zushi (Mackerel Sushi) and the Flavors of the 24 Solar Terms,” was held at Taiwa Gakuen Education Inc.’s Kyoto Culinary Art College.

This special lecture welcomed Yoshinori Tanaka, sixth-generation head of Toriyone, and Shogo Sasaki, eighth-generation head of Izuu. It served as a rare opportunity to learn not only the techniques that have carried forward Kyoto’s culinary traditions, but also the spirit behind them.

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    “Cooking is a comprehensive art that engages all five senses,” said Yoshinori Tanaka of Toriyone, adding that “taste can be cultivated, and memories of truly delicious food become lifelong treasures.” Tanaka explained that the skills required for Kyoryori (Kyoto cuisine), one of Japan’s regional cuisines, can be distilled into four elements: ingredients (their individual characteristics), history, cooking techniques, and discernment. While the word WAZA often brings to mind knife skills or technical prowess, he emphasized that “WAZA is a means to an end—a clear sense of purpose that ultimately moves the diner.”

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    During the lecture, he demonstrated these principles through a live preparation of their signature duck breast dish. To allow diners to fully savor the umami, the meat was prepared so it would be tender and easy to eat even when sliced thickly. Seasonal chestnuts were served on the side, with Tanaka noting, “I pay close attention to variations in texture and flavor so that as the meal progress, diners find themselves thinking, ‘I want to try that—and that too.’”

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    Shogo Sasaki of Izuu gave a demonstrative lecture on the key WAZA behind Saba-no-Sugata-Zushi (Mackerel Sushi), a historic dish that has been cherished by diners since the restaurant’s founding (1781). He traced its origins to the wisdom of earlier generations, who packed mackerel with salt after removing the innards to ensure it could be transported safely from Fukui Prefecture to Kyoto, arriving with just the right saltiness, in a process known as “anbai.” He also explained the local custom of mothers sharing the sushi with neighbors during events such as festivals—practices that helped deeply root saba-zushi in Kyoto’s food culture.

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    “Kyoto-style saba-zushi is a cooking technique that brings out the natural umami of the fish,” said Sasaki, as he demonstrated various masterful techniques, such as how to effectively vinegar fatty autumn mackerel, and shaping sushi using nothing more than a single piece of cloth. “Because ice retains moisture and keeps the fish properly hydrated, we still use ice-based refrigeration at Izuu today,” he said, underscoring how traditional methods have remained deeply rooted in the restaurant’s practices. Serving the sushi on early Edo-period Ko-Imari porcelain, he added, “Saba-zushi has little color of its own, so we use these vessels to add a bit of elegance,” conveying the importance of visual presentation as well as flavor.

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