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Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi]

Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi]

　The intangible “WAZA” that sustain Japan’s food culture have been refined and passed down through the country’s history to create the moving culinary experiences (“deliciousness”) we enjoy.
　On December 4, a special lecture by WAZA inheritors, called “Aesthetic Sensibilities in Kyogashi(Kyoto Confectionery): Subtraction and Space” was held at Taiwa Gakuen Education Inc.’s Kyoto Culinary Art College.

　This is a report on the special lecture given by Keita Takaya, the fifth-generation head of "Onkashi Tsukasa Shioyoshiken," which has a store in Nishijin, a prosperous textile town since the Muromachi period.

  • Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi] 0

    Keita Takaya of Shioyoshiken, a confectioner, says, “When people think of the ‘WAZA’ behind namagashi, they often imagine intricate and elaborate decoration, but the art of ‘subtraction’—knowing what to leave out—is also a technique.” Speaking about the culture of Kyogashi (Kyoto Confectionery), which was shaped by courtly traditions, temples and shrines, and the tea ceremony, he emphasized: “At a tea gathering, various utensils such as the hanging scroll, flower vase, tea bowl, and natsume tea caddy are all arranged so that nothing stands out too much and everything is designed simply. In the same way, I believe Kyogashi should value empty space, allowing the customer’s imagination to fill it. This is essential to making these sweets.”

  • Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi] 1

    Displaying photos of Kyogashi on the monitor, he explained: “This one is inspired by autumn leaves. By adding mijinko (coarse glutinous rice flour) around it, it evokes the morning frost, which I think can remind people of the chill of an autumn morning.” He emphasized that even through appearance alone, a variety of scenes can be conveyed. Recalling an experience from a lecture in France, where someone described Kyogashi as “poetic”, he illustrated how even a tiny confection, small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, can spark limitless imagination and delight.

  • Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi] 2

    In the demonstration, he introduced konashi, a Kyoto-origin technique in which strained bean paste is mixed with wheat flour and other ingredients, steamed, kneaded with sugar, colored, and then shaped into various forms. He explained that when flour is mixed into strained bean paste and steamed, it becomes steamed yokan, while kneading and refining it further transforms it into konashi. He then showed Kyogashi made from pink and white konashi, explaining, “A deeper pink suggests plum blossoms, while a paler pink becomes cherry blossoms. Sprinkling freeze-dried mochi powder over the top allows us to express flowers blooming in the snow.” The audience listened with deep interest, captivated by the delicate expressiveness that reflects the changing seasons.

  • Namagashi with Kamei (Unbaked Sweets with Confectionery Name) [Nerikiri/Konashi] 3

    At the end of the lecture, participants had the opportunity to taste the Kyogashi prepared by Mr. Takaya himself. The room was filled with a curious and enthusiastic atmosphere, with participants exchanging opinions after each bite and examining the shapes and colors up close. “By seeing, listening, learning, and expanding your imagination, the enjoyment of Kyogashi grows exponentially,” Mr. Takaya remarked. He also shared that he continually refines his own sensibilities by spending time outdoors observing landscapes and by sensing scenes through haiku.

    The lecture moved clearly and thoughtfully from the history and philosophy of Kyogashi to hands-on technical demonstrations. Participants listened attentively while taking notes, and during the tasting session, it was striking to see them engage with the sweets as if confirming and deepening what they had learned throughout the day.

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