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Traditional Knowledge and Skills of Sake-Making

Traditional Knowledge and Skills of Sake-Making

The intangible “WAZA” that sustain Japan’s food culture have been refined and passed down through the country’s history to create the moving culinary experiences (“deliciousness”) we enjoy.
On December 6, a food culture WAZA inheritance program on “traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making” was held at Nakamura Brewery in Ishikawa Prefecture.

Recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, “traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making” employs time-honored techniques using Japan’s native koji mold. Participants learned about these methods from Taro Nakamura, President and CEO of Nakamura Brewery, and Yoshihiko Watanabe, the brewery’s toji (master brewer).

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    The traditional knowledge and skills of Japanese sake-making using koji mold is an exceptionally delicate process, often described as “the most difficult alcohol brewing process in the world.” Because the state of fermentation inside the tanks changes from day to day, many aspects of the craft have been cultivated through the tojis’ experience and intuition. As a result, some breweries have apparently begun producing sake without using koji. Mr. Nakamura shared his thoughts, saying, “Through sake brewing, I want to cherish and carry forward the culture and history that have been passed down over generations.”

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    Another appeal of sake brewing lies in how regional character emerges from differences in rice, water, climate, and other local conditions. Mr. Nakamura explained, “To ‘brew’ local sake, it’s essential to make it in that place. We receive the blessings of the land and create sake that pairs well with the local cuisine. That is a Japanese cultural practice that has been passed down for generations.” One traditional method known as kan-zukuri, or brewing during the coldest months of the year from around December to February, began in the late Edo period.
    “When snow falls, the air becomes clear because it removes dust and other particles from the air. In sake brewing, various microorganisms in the air can affect quality, so people in the past chose to brew in winter, when the air was cleaner.” This explanation describes a phenomenon that can now be understood scientifically. Realizing that such wisdom was passed down not through theory but through intuition, participants nodded in understanding, many of them eagerly taking notes as their appreciation deepened.

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    At the brewery, participants observed kai-ire, an essential process in which the shubo (yeast starter) is stirred using a kai (a sake-brewing tool consisting of a pole with a small paddle attached at the end). Mr. Watanabe explained, “If the mixture feels too soft at this stage, fermentation is progressing too quickly, so we lower the temperature. If it feels too firm, fermentation hasn’t started properly. That’s where relying on your own senses becomes crucial.” Changes that cannot be fully measured by numbers alone are assessed and addressed through the tojis’ experience and intuition, once again highlighting the depth of the tojis’ “WAZA”.

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    From pressing and pasteurization to storage and maturation, sake brewing takes several months in total, and in some cases, more than a year. In closing, Mr. Nakamura shared a message for future successors: “Even if you discover areas for improvement after tasting this year’s sake, you won’t be able to put them into practice until next year. I hope to work with people who can enjoy sake brewing throughout the entire year, people with whom we can pass on and nurture this culture together,” he said with a smile.

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