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Temomi Seicha (Hand-Rolled Tea Production)

Temomi Seicha (Hand-Rolled Tea Production)

The intangible “WAZA” that sustain Japan’s food culture have been refined and passed down through the country’s history to create the moving culinary experiences (“deliciousness”) we enjoy.
On December 12, a food culture WAZA inheritance program on “hand-rolled tea production” was held in Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture.

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    On this day, participants learned the art of hand-rolled tea production from Shuhei Yoshida of the Uji Tea Manufacturing Techniques Preservation Association. Fresh tea leaves harvested in May, steamed, and then stored frozen were spread out on a heated table known as a hoiro. The process began with tsuyu-tori, in which the leaves are moved up and down to remove moisture remaining after the steaming stage. While gas is now used to heat the hoiro from below, it was originally heated with charcoal.

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    The process then moved on to a step known as yoko-makuri, in which the tea leaves are rolled sideways. This is the first stage in which the cell walls are broken, making it easier for the tea components to leach out. Although today this step is almost entirely done by machine, Mr. Yoshida noted, “With hand-rolling, the aroma is exceptional.” As the rich scent of tea filled the room, participants voiced their amazement.
    Hand-rolled tea production involves around ten steps, many of which are focused on reducing the water content. Watching Mr. Yoshida’s demonstration, each step appears deceptively simple, but when participants try it themselves, they are quickly struck by its difficulty. The amount of pressure applied, the movement of the hands, and even subtle differences in feel all affect the final result, revealing the depth of “WAZA” that has been refined through years of experience.

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    One distinctive feature of traditional hand-rolled tea production in Kyoto is a process known as ita-zuri. This step is said to be unique to Kyoto, where flavor is given particular importance. The tea leaves are placed on a board and rubbed up and down with both hands while being aligned, creating friction. According to Mr. Yoshida, ita-zuri can only be done successfully when the leaves have been sufficiently kneaded in the earlier stages and their water content has been properly adjusted. Through this, participants learn that every single step in the process serves a purpose.

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    Spending nearly six hours standing and continuing the hand-rolling process, today’s inheritance program offered participants a firsthand appreciation of both the labor involved in each step and the true value of the “WAZA” required to produce a single cup of tea. Leaves that were soft and fluffy at the start gradually transformed, step by step, into something recognizably “tea.” Enjoying this visible change, participants approached each stage with focused, serious expressions. Mr. Yoshida also remarked with a smile, “Everyone worked so skillfully that it was hard to believe it was their first time, I was genuinely impressed.” By engaging directly with the “WAZA” that have been passed down through generations, and by experiencing both their difficulty and depth, the day left participants with a strong and tangible sense of accomplishment.

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