June 10, 2015
The beauty of Rosanjin Kitaoji - master artisan of Japanese food
Chinatsu Makiguchi, Principal Investigator, The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto
Rosanjin Kitaoji (1883-1959) was a master artisan, known for his writings, engravings, cooking, and ceramics. This exhibit honors the appointment of Japanese cuisine (washoku) as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, and focuses on his belief that "the vessel is clothing for the food inside." These famous words were well-known, beyond his masterful preparations of sukiyaki or natto. We hope to hone in on the charm of Rosanjin by focusing on this relationship between the vessel and cooking.
Rosanjin Kitaoji was born in 1883 in Kyoto (real name: Fusajiro). After wandering for a while, he jointly managed an antique store called Taiga-do. While managing this business, he devised a service whereby he would display his cooking in the ancient ceramics. In 1921, he founded the Bishoku Club, which became a forum to try new insights regarding food and vessels, born through interactions with foodie colleagues in Kyoto, Siga, and the Hokuriku region of Japan. These unique activities quickly gained a good reputation among the foodies of the time.
As a chef, Rosanjin was most active as adviser and head chef of the high-end, members-only restaurant called Hoshigaoka Saryo in Nagata-cho, Tokyo (1925-36). The bulletin published by the restaurant highlighted the group's interest in procuring ingredients from around the nation in all seasons, and discussed preparation methods to best preserve the freshness and qualities of the ingredients. These activities give a glimpse into how much Rosanjin was pursuing the world of gourmet food. He was also involved in creative ways to entertain his guests, such as holding early morning banquets to appreciate ancient ceramics, or opening a summer night garden. Teiichi Yuki, who trained at Hoshigaoka and became the first Person of Cultural Merits as a chef said, "Words cannot capture it. It was a place blossoming with the flowers of cooking." when asked about his time at Hoshigaoka.
Rosanjin began his path down the road of pottery making in earnest when he was making tableware for Hoshigaoka. Searching for his ideal tableware, he established the Rosanjin Kiln Art Research Center, Hoshigaoka Kiln, and began researching and making traditional pottery. After moving away from managing a restaurant, Rosanjin became actively involved in making pottery and matching it to cooking. He learned from the ancient pottery that he collected and made uniquely beautiful pieces, including a chopping board dish and large pot. These works of art, that tied together food with eating implements, captured the fascination of many who were in search of gourmet foods.
Bowl with design of Camellia, overglaze enamels and gold
1955, The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto
This exhibit showcases Japanese cooking and the works of Rosanjin, who revolutionized Japanese cuisine; by understanding his works, we can start to see his sense of beauty, a philosophy of hospitality, and a perspective on nature through harmonization of the vessel and the food within.
Square Oribe Bowl with Cover at Kuzuya Hyotei
Photo: Yoshihiko Ueda
The highlights of this exhibition are the movies and photographs that make up an on-location display, in collaboration with three of Kyoto's restaurants (Hyotei, Kikunoi, Kyoto Kiccho) and modern photographers (Yoshihiko Ueda, Taishi Hirokawa, and Mikio Hasui).
The 400-year-old tradition of the tea house Hyotei is captured through the unique lens of Yoshihiko Ueda. At Kikunoi, Taishi Hirokawa has created a video installation focusing on the light dancing around within the restaurant. Finally, Mikio Hasui faithfully and charmingly captured every detail of Kyoto Kiccho made in the style of a tea ceremony house and set against the backdrop of Mt. Arashiyama. We hope you enjoy the combined beauty of each of the photographer's works together with the pottery of Rosanjin.
Rosanjin was aiming for a unified and comprehensive beauty that encompassed etiquette, cooking, vessels, and a philosophy of hospitality. We hope that this exhibit will be an opportunity for you to re-evaluate the depth of the culture of Japanese cuisine, a part of which is passed down through beauty as seen by Rosanjin.